Beyond sweetness: vanilla’s new chapter in perfumery

The world of perfume has a new–old star. Vanilla - yes, her - long associated mainly with sweetness and desserts, is making a grand comeback in 2025 as one of the most desired fragrance ingredients. The last two years have already foreshadowed her triumph: vanilla has become a key note in countless launches, and by autumn 2024, it had taken its place among the most sought-after accords in consumer fragrance trends.

Vanilla’s immense popularity on the perfume market is fueled above all by viral layering tricks on TikTok and the fact that 65% of perfume lovers now identify as fans of gourmand scents - a phenomenon reflected in over 4.7 billion views under #PerfumeTok. According to Market Defence reports for Amazon, perfumes with vanilla as a main note dominate best-seller lists, proving that vanilla is no longer just a supporting accent but the very foundation of an entire olfactory category.

What exactly is vanilla?

It’s a climbing orchid (family Orchidaceae) native to Mexico and Central America, which reached Europe in the 16th century. Natural vanilla is notoriously difficult and expensive to obtain: it requires hand pollination, matures for 8–9 months, and then undergoes several more months of drying and fermentation. Cultivation areas are limited, and the plants are prone to disease.

The true revolution came in the 19th century with the discovery of vanillin, a chemical compound that faithfully replicates the sweet aroma of natural vanilla, making it possible to introduce this note into perfumery on a much larger scale. One of the first fragrances to use vanillin was the legendary “Jicky” by Guerlain (1889) - the perfume that marked the beginning of modern perfumery. Today, both natural vanilla and its synthetic counterpart are used side by side, creating a balance between luxury and longevity.

Vanilla in modern perfumery

In contemporary trends, vanilla has gained new depth and complexity through pairing with contrasting notes that temper its sweetness or give it a leathery edge. It no longer dominates - it embraces the skin, wrapping it in a gentle aura that highlights elegance and individuality.

At a time when fragrance has become a statement of mood and identity, this timeless note is being rediscovered as the emotional core of many compositions.

Which vanillas are defining 2025?

First and foremost, the “dark” vanilla - rich, intriguing, and deep, created through the combination of woody, leathery, and spicy notes. At the same time, the classic sweet vanilla isn’t disappearing - it’s evolving, taking on a more mature form.

Gourmand compositions are no longer simple sweetness; instead, they draw on brown sugar, tonka bean, butter, and caramel. This transformation gives vanilla a new multidimensional richness, making it a luxurious and sensual note.

Pairing vanilla with white florals is another strong trend - it lends lightness and delicacy while preserving timeless sophistication. Yet vanilla can also be “comforting” - soothing and calming, like an aromatic balm for the senses - making it perfect for everyday compositions that feel intimate and warm.

Vanilla in Rêve de Chantelle perfumes — through the eyes of the creator

In Petit Jouet JouJou, vanilla introduces warmth and a powdery veil of sweetness. It gives the fragrance a “fluffy” texture - perfectly in tune with its name (“little toy,” “cuddly friend”). Here, vanilla shows her niche personality, evoking pure joy. Combined with juicy fruits, she feels sunny and lively, making Petit Jouet JouJou irresistibly soft and wearable - especially in spring and summer - suiting every woman who loves to be embraced by scent.

In Aurore, everything sparkles - but in a soft, feminine way. Vanilla adds a warm, sophisticated hint of sweetness, wrapping the wearer in a silky shawl of scent. She brings a glazed, sugary tenderness to the composition and playfully winks at us - slipping into heels, ready to be mischievous… yet still irresistibly sweet. On the skin, she shines most beautifully on cool days and evenings.

In Balerina, vanilla is creamy and long-lasting, confident and radiant in the spotlight. Once sprayed, she mingles with the air, filling it with citrus notes and the coquettish charm of our heroine. Here, vanilla becomes slightly cheeky - part girlish, part retro. The scent is soft and full of contrasts: elegant yet carefree, feminine without being fierce - gentle, alluring, and irresistibly human. At times, one might think this sweetness borders on eroticism - but it’s only an illusion.
Balerina isn’t for everyone; it may overwhelm shy souls, but those who dare will find it unforgettable.

Conclusion

The year 2025 proves that vanilla is more than a fragrance note - it’s a cultural phenomenon. Its modern face blends nostalgia with innovation, delicacy with strength, innocence with seduction.

In Rêve de Chantelle’s perfumes, vanilla steps out of the background and takes center stage - captivating and enhancing the feminine essence of each composition.

That is the true magic of vanilla: she unites contrasts and plays with them masterfully. In a world longing for authenticity and emotion, vanilla returns as a symbol of warmth and timeless beauty - and all signs suggest her scent will linger in our bottles for a long time to come.