Unisex perfumes: the trend toward gender-neutral fragrances

If we had to name one of the most popular trends in modern perfumery, we would say without hesitation: unisex perfumes. These fragrances have taken the hearts of millennials and Generation Z by storm, as these groups reject traditional labeling. The growing popularity of unisex scents is evidenced by the fact that in 2014, they accounted for 12% of global perfume launches, and by 2023, they made up nearly one-fifth of all new releases!

Unisex fragrances are not a new invention. They existed long before the traditional division of perfumes into men’s and women’s categories. In ancient times, fragrances were primarily used during religious ceremonies. It’s impossible not to mention Cleopatra, known for her passion for scents and various beauty rituals. J. Isabelle Laflèche, in her book “I Love Paris”, wrote that Egypt’s most famous queen supposedly ordered the sails of her ship soaked in aromatic oils before setting off to seduce Mark Antony. Cleopatra understood the immense power of fragrances and their influence on others. In subsequent centuries, perfumes were a luxury item affordable only to the elite. It wasn’t until the 19th century that the first gender-specific perfumes were created, designed to differ not only in scent but also in bottle design. For a long time, fragrances were closely tied to gender: women’s perfumes were expected to be delicate with subtle floral notes, while men’s compositions featured strong woody tones with a hint of spice. However, women sometimes borrowed their partner’s fragrances to feel more confident at work and assert their authority, while men didn’t always feel comfortable with intense scents.

The concept of “unisex” began gaining traction in the 1960s amidst a wave of social revolutions redefining societal norms. The second wave of feminism, the fight for civil rights, the sexual revolution, and the exploration of new artistic expressions all contributed to a countercultural movement that questioned traditional values and gender norms. This decade was also a time of experimentation in fashion, with elements of men’s and women’s wardrobes blending and pants becoming a staple in women’s attire. In the wake of these changes, the unisex style naturally permeated the world of perfumery, culminating in the 1975 release of Yves Saint Laurent’s first fragrance officially designed for both genders. However, it failed to gain widespread recognition. The true breakthrough came in 1994 with Calvin Klein’s One, a scent that captured the hearts of both women and men and remains iconic to this day. Since then, more brands have embraced unisex perfumes, breaking traditional gender boundaries.

Key features of unisex fragrances

Unisex perfumes are characterized by:

1. Neutrality: Avoiding notes stereotypically associated with one gender. These compositions often feature citrus, herbal, woody, or aquatic scents.
2. Minimalism: Ensuring the perfumes adapt easily to different skin types without overpowering the wearer’s surroundings.
3. Versatility: Suitable for both everyday use and special occasions. Unisex perfumes act like a chameleon, adapting to the environment and fitting seamlessly into various settings.
4. Unrestricted expression: Allowing wearers to express themselves through fragrance, regardless of gender. These perfumes are an ideal choice for individuals who avoid rigid categorizations and prefer scents that align with their personal tastes.

Breaking gender norms in perfumery

The evolution of gender-neutral fragrances mirrors broader societal and cultural shifts in the understanding of gender and identity. Concepts such as gender theory, transgender rights, and advocacy for minority groups introduce new perspectives into the perfume industry, fostering a more diverse and inclusive approach to scent creation. Unisex perfumes celebrate individuality, transcending divisions and affirming self-acceptance. In the context of gender, they serve as tools for empowerment and authenticity.

Following movements like #MeToo, there has been a noticeable shift away from the sexualization of fragrances toward greater neutrality. Some even propose eliminating the classification of perfumes as “for women” or “for men,” suggesting instead that scents be categorized and marketed based on their profiles, such as fruity, floral, spicy, or woody. Ben Gorham, the founder of Stockholm-based Byredo, remarked:

Personal chemistry, influenced by an individual’s lifestyle, can directly impact how a perfume smells on their skin. To me, generalizing this in relation to gender is insufficient. I usually don’t consider who will wear our creations during the creative process; it’s more about personal expression.

It’s also worth noting that the fluidity of gender in fragrances extends to bottle design, with shapes and color schemes often reflecting minimalist aesthetics.

The future of unisex perfumes

The future of unisex perfumes looks promising. Although major cosmetics companies still lean on traditional perceptions of fragrances, these boundaries are increasingly blurring. People are choosing scents that resonate with them personally, regardless of labeling. As new generations emerge with a strong focus on individuality, perfume brands must adapt their narratives to meet consumer demands if they wish to maintain or build their market presence.

Unisex perfumes are not just a trend—they represent a cultural shift toward inclusivity and the celebration of diversity in self-expression.